This week, I had the opportunity to attend Copenhagen Fashion Week SS25, which ran from August 5th to 9th. Throughout the week, I participated in various fashion shows, events, and talks (and some parties!).
Copenhagen Fashion Week stands apart from Paris, Milan, New York, and London Fashion Week due to its unique sustainability requirements. Designers must meet these standards to be included in the official schedule. These standards, developed by the organizers of Copenhagen Fashion Week in collaboration with third-party sustainability consultants, cover six key areas of the supply chain and include 18 specific action points.
These guidelines are designed to encourage fashion brands to adopt more environmentally friendly and ethical practices.
In this post, I’d like to highlight three designers whose latest collections I had the pleasure of seeing on the runway.
Rolf Ekroth
Rolf Ekroth is a Finnish/Swedish designer who launched his brand in 2020. Since graduating from Aalto University in Helsinki in 2015, he has worked on many collaborative projects, won many prizes, and gained international recognition.
Rolf Ekroth’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Lavatanssit,” is a tribute to the charm of the Finnish summer nights and the dance pavilions scattered across the countryside. Inspired by the designer’s personal experiences, the collection captures the romance and melancholy that simmer beneath the surface of Finland’s stoic culture. Ekroth reimagines traditional dance attire with a contemporary edge, merging safety features with floral prints—most notably a floral life vest, a statement piece highlighting Finland’s drowning statistics.
The collection showcases Ekroth’s dedication to craftsmanship, with standout pieces like dandelion jeans featuring 250 handcrafted pendants, bombers detailed with hand-knitted touches, and a dress adorned with 180 earrings.
Approximately 90 per cent of the collection has been created using deadstock, recycled, or organic materials. For this collection, Rolf Ekroth also collaborated with jewellery brand Kalevala and knitting company Novita to celebrate Finnish craftsmanship. In addition, a partnership with Puma nods to Finland’s motorsport legacy through subtle racing-inspired details. Ekroth’s runway show was completed with Happy Socks, with different socks created to capture the spirit of Lavatanssit.
Overall, “Lavatanssit” is a vibrant fusion of tradition and modernity, celebrating Finnish culture through carefully selected materials, intricate designs, and a deeply personal narrative. Ekroth’s collection is both a love letter to the past and a fresh, modern take on Finnish identity.
Interested in seeing more of Rolf Ekroth’s work? Check out their website or Instagram (@rolf_ekroth).
Alectra Rothschild
Alectra was a trained tailor before she started studying fashion at Beckmans College of Design, MA Fashion under Fabio Piras at Central Saint Martins, and sustainability and fashion at The Royal Danish Academy. She has worked and trained with big names like Iris van Herpen and Mugler and did freelance work for Alexander McQueen, and Birkenstock. Alectra has gained international recognition and has dressed stars like Zara Larsson and Michéle Lamy.
Alectra Rothschild’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “You are wasted here, you are a star,” powerfully reflects on the experiences of trans people in society. It explores themes of intimacy, platonic love, and the complex journey from public to private spaces. The show was a bold statement, both in its design and its message.
Drawing inspiration from 1920s boudoir aesthetics and Erté’s iconic silhouettes, the collection features a striking mix of romantic nightgowns, provocative clubwear, and leathery racer garments. Techniques like ruffles, gatherings, deconstruction, and slashing are expertly employed alongside corsetry, with Rothschild even creating her own latex from scratch.
Sustainability plays a crucial role in the collection, with innovative materials like Oleatex—a leather alternative made from recycled polyester and olives—alongside deadstock lace and silks from Belgerian Fabrics. Showpieces are crafted from upcycled garments and fabrics, reinforcing Rothschild’s commitment to eco-conscious fashion.
The show itself was a powerful statement on societal power dynamics, with the majority of the cast being trans or from marginalized communities. Rothschild aimed to elevate these individuals, literally and metaphorically, placing them on a pedestal to challenge societal norms.
Overall, Alectra Rothschild’s collection is a romantic and defiant love letter to her queer and trans siblings, blending rich historical references with cutting-edge fashion to create a deeply personal and socially resonant show.
Interested in seeing more of Alectra Rothschild’s work? Check out their website or Instagram (@iwantmasculina).
Tess van Zalinge
In 2016 Tess van Zalinge founded her eponymous label with the idea to make couture more accessible and conscious.
She presented her newest collection, “Momentum”, at the iconic House of Finn Juhl this Copenhagen Fashion Week.
The collection, inspired by the paradox of movement and stillness, celebrates the intricate and often hidden processes behind couture. Van Zalinge’s designs this season prominently display her expertise in tailoring and construction, with each piece crafted to reveal the layered artistry involved in their creation. The presentation featured a diverse cast, including writer Stijn de Vries and climate activist Kiki Boreel, adding depth to the narrative and enriching the overall experience.
“Momentum” features unique handmade designs in sizes ranging from 36 to 50, crafted from deadstock materials sourced from partners like Nortvi and Atelier Munro. Tess repurposed materials such as returned suitcases from Nortvi, transforming their hardcovers into laser-cut ornaments and linings into intricate corset-shaped designs. The collection also includes glass-blown objects created in collaboration with Sommer Dutch Glass Art, emphasizing her dedication to artistic craftsmanship and sustainability.
“Momentum” features unique handmade designs in sizes ranging from 36 to 50, crafted from deadstock materials sourced from partners like Nortvi and Atelier Munro. Tess repurposed materials such as returned suitcases from Nortvi, transforming their hardcovers into laser-cut ornaments and linings into intricate corset-shaped designs. The collection also includes glass-blown objects created in collaboration with Sommer Dutch Glass Art, emphasizing her dedication to artistic craftsmanship and sustainability.
With “Momentum,” Tess van Zalinge continues to bridge the gap between couture and ready-to-wear, offering a contemporary take on femininity and craftsmanship. Her dedication to sustainability and circular longevity is evident in every aspect of the collection, making a positive and conscious contribution to the fashion industry.
Interested in seeing more of Tess van Zalinge’s work? Check out their website or Instagram (@tessvanzalinge).
Sources
The images from the Rolf Ekroth and Alectra Rothschild shows were sourced from the CPHFW database, while the photos from Tess van Zalinge’s presentation were obtained from her press release. All credits belong to their respective owners.
The header picture is from the Tess van Zalinge presentation.
Image Credit: Nick Kuipers
- Press release Rolf Ekroth SS25
- Press release Alectra Rothschild SS25
- Press release Tess van Zalinge SS25
